Shell-shocked after disembarking from a life-invigorating adventure Uncruise in southeastern Alaska, we strolled aimlessly along the boardwalk in Juneau. Booths toting local activities lined the waterway. Looking for a hike or something to take us back into nature, we stopped at one and began a conversation with Astral. (one more participant in the A-game) Gregarious and friendly, we instantly bonded. She told us that her whale tour was seeing bubble-net feeding, to which my companion immediately said we had to go. “I don’t know what that is, but I guess I’m going!” After being on a boat completely cut-off from technology, we were both feeling out of sorts walking amongst the crowds, missing our sea legs and not ready for the real world again. Getting back on the water seemed like the best solution. We stepped upon Juneau Whale Tours aluminum boat with only a handful of other passengers – the perfect amount. Cruising for less than 30 minutes, we arrived in Auke Bay where a smattering of other boats had created a large circle in the bay. It wasn’t long before there was action. Writing this gives me chills all over again. With no knowledge of what I was about to experience, my expectations were nil beyond seeing a humpback.

I had gone most of my life without seeing a whale, even though much of that time I lived on the coast of California.

Obsessed, since EVERYONE I met had a whale tale, I embarked on boat after boat trying to spot one. I spent my first Alaskan cruise on the bow of the ship, whilst others drank and ate to their heart’s content. Taking a float plane over Misty Fjords, the pilot received word of a humpback and calf in the harbor we had just left. I begged to turn the plane around. To which he replied, “There’s a beached whale on our way,” and I vehemently responded, “My first whale will not be a dead whale!” Later that evening as I celebrated seeing an Orca (only to further discover it was a Dall’s PORPOISE), an older gentleman pulled out his point-n-shoot camera from the 1980’s and proceeded to show me the mama and calf in the harbor we missed. I threatened to throw him overboard.

 Another boat, more whales…a breach, but too far away for my camera lens. One more boat mere hours before my flight home, and not only a breach, but a baby breaching. I wept. Going forward, any whale was just gravy.

Until this day.

Once they were spotted, my long lens was fixed (albeit shaky on a moving boat). Seagulls flew in a circle above the spot we were told to focus on. Out of the water, at least TEN huge open mouths of mammoth humpbacks burst. A feeding frenzy with flapping fins, surging water, diving birds and then a call from one of the whales, so loud we could hear it. A choreographed ballet of synchronized flukes moved elegantly as one after another, the whales began to dive below the surface. I was shaking. What had I just witnessed?  Laughing and squealing, all I could think about was how lucky I was to see one of nature’s most beautiful sights. Bubble-net feeding is a cooperative hunting technique used to trap fish & krill in a circle of bubbles. The birds began to circle in another spot. Once again, the enormous mouths came surging out of the sea, and chaos ensued whilst I frantically tried to get sharp focus. Over and over again, the whales would perform. The captain said there were close to 17 whales in this pod.

 At one point, the whales cruised right alongside our boat, expelling their blowholes. “I’ve just got sprayed by whale juju! I know I smell like fish, but I’m never bathing again!” I shouted. The spray created a rainbow and the emotions I was feeling sent me spinning – I was almost in tears. Truly, one of the most surreal, remarkable experiences of my life.

Truth.

I stayed on in Juneau a few more days and was fortunate enough to go back out on Astral’s boat for a second round. The previous sailing was in the afternoon with a large pod; this journey was in the morning. Coming into the bay, we immediately found a bubble-netting group, but merely 6-8 whales. Graceful rather than frenetic, much more subdued, they were easier to photograph. As exciting as the last experience, but knowing what was coming, I was able to calm my emotions, taking in the show with fresh eyes, still damp, however.

Nature never ceases to amaze, but this go round was to new heights.

Best whale tale ever.